#51 – How to NOT Die in the Mountains

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Picture this.

You’ve taken vacation days from work and flown across the country to climb a Colorado 14er. Let’s say it’s Longs Peak.

As you’re climbing, you look into the distance and see dark clouds gathering. You wonder if you should call it a day and head down, but you don’t want to miss your only shot at Longs.

Also, all the people around you — the tourists in flip flops and jean shorts — are still heading up.

In this moment, how do you sort through all the feelings and doubts and make the right decision?

Well, the good news is that wilderness decision-making actually has some brain science behind it.

Today on the podcast, we’re going to dive into the thought errors that might cloud your thinking so you can notice them when they’re happening and make safer choices.

And we’re going to get some help from an avalanche educator who has studied lots of wilderness accidents, figured out what went wrong, and how we can all do better.

Ready? Let’s do this.

Linked Resources

• Mountain Fit Course
• AIARE
• Accident report: Mount Evans Road
• Accident report: Grays and Torreys approach
• (Blog) Avalanche safety for hikers
• The Sharp End podcast
• The Avalanche Hour podcast
• Slide: The Avalanche Podcast
• Mountaineers and Backpackers in Training Facebook Group
• Sarah's Instagram (@missadventurepants)
• Try breathwork with Sarah

Episode Sneak Peek

• [4:52] Ken talks about his upcoming trip to Denali and what he’s excited about in 2021. The importance of loving the journey when you’re climbing something this big and uncertain. Redefining success in mountaineering.

• [7:55] Evolving from a hiker to a mountaineer to an avalanche educator (and some tips on how you can do the same). Why all mountaineers need good decision-making skills, even if you stay away from avalanche terrain.

• [11:40] How human factors impact mountaineering safety. The psychology of summit fever. The role of cognitive bias in incidents and accidents.

• [14:17] Why so many climbers misinterpret the avalanche forecast and other measures of risk. Why most accidents and fatalities occur in “moderate-risk” conditions. A good rule of thumb when dealing with uncertainty in the backcountry.

• [17:50] Examples of common cognitive biases and how these impact our wilderness decision-making. How group dynamics can impact your safety. Why you still need to be responsible for your safety (and the group’s safety) on guided trips.

• [23:06] How to be a good team member. We give you permission to speak up, take up space, and assert yourself. The illusion of social proof (social facilitation). A couple of real-life case studies where following others blindly led to trouble.

• [27:27] How to become a better decision-maker outdoors. A great free resource online for avalanche safety. The life-saving magic of awareness. The importance of finding good mentors.

• [32:28] Some tips on choosing your teammates. Why not all your friends will make great mountaineering buddies.

• [36:04] Closing: in which we encourage you to educate yourself and learn everything you can. Some of our favorite avalanche and wilderness safety podcasts.